During my trip to Chicago in january I'm looking for all kinds of indoor activities :-)) .
So, could I visit the Chess Studio?

I think so:

[www.bluesaccess.com]

Thanks!

yes, you can

Good. I thought it was torn down

"Leaving the reception area, we retrace the steps of innumerable hopefuls and follow a photo-lined corridor toward the offices that once belonged to Phil and Leonard Chess. I am reminded of a hallway encounter that had so bewildered Keith Richards, who recorded here with the Rolling Stones and made the address famous with an instrumental number titled "2120 South Michigan." "You walk in ... on your hands and knees in this Mecca," he told Paul Trynka, "And they say, ‘You might like to meet this guy who’s up on a stepladder in a white overall.’ ‘Who’s that?’ ‘That’s Muddy Waters.’ It was another of those slaps around the face."

The story has always puzzled me. Either times were exceedingly lean or Muddy was one remarkably loyal employee. Dixon-Nelson admits that blues artists often took other forms of employment in the early 1960s, yet she believes that this story may be a "wives’ tale."

"What I know of him, seeing him all my life, I would opt to dispel the story because of the nature of Muddy’s character," she says. "Not only was he larger than life in spirit, but he certainly was a celebrity in every form. I can’t remember a time, whether he was visiting my father in the garden or whether he was working on a song with him on an extremely hot, humid Chicago day, in which he was not dressed in a suit and a silk shirt with cuff links and whatever else was appropriate for his attire. However, I happen to believe that Keith Richards is one of the most honest artists that is on the scene today that was part of the original Chess family. I don’t believe that he would ever make a statement, if in fact that is his statement, that would be inaccurate. Who knows what actually occurred."




More petrol on the fire of one of Keith's tall tales. Read a few times that Muddy always was immaculately dressed and wouldnt be seen dead in overalls painting a ceiling....and Marshall Chess said Keith's story was utter invention on his part.

Keith is a story-teller. And a good one. Many of his stories are urban myths, that are disconfirmed by other people (like the famous one of Andrew locking Keith and Mick to the kitchen to force them to write songs: didn't happen according to Mick), but I think Keith himself, who has live in a buble and inside myths most of his life - and is a romantician per se - cannot really tell the difference anymore. That's Keith - honest in his own way.

- Doxa

Oh they're entertaining, for sure - just not always to be taken seriously

Bill Wyman told recently that Keith's story about Muddy Waters painting the ceiling was totally crap! Over the years it has become a true urban myth like the one about the crocodiles in the NY sewer! Funny!

you don't need Wyman to tell you it was crap. you only need to understand the dignity with which Muddy lived his life to know it.

The studio moved to another location in the mid-80's.
But the address at 2120 South Michigan Ave. is (as of the late 90's)
a museum.

i agree that Keith ain't lyin about this - he clearly believes the version he tells - but that doesn't mean he's correct. i think it's not just Bill and ALO who state that Muddy Waters was indeed at Chess Studios when the Stones arrived, and in his ultimately gentlemanly way helped them carry their equipment inside (or anyway offerred to help) - so how's this for a theory:
someone *is* painting the ceiling as Keith is carting equipment into the place; when someone comes up behind him and whispers: "yikes, look - it's Muddy Waters, can you believe it?!" Keith - who is all excited at being at this legendary place, most likely not real well rested, is busy wrestling with an amp or something, and didn't see Muddy's approach - thinks they're referring to the cat painting the ceiling.

all right all right - who knows.


"What do you want - what?!"
- Keith

Yes, did it in 97 when they opened in Chicago. But don't be disappointed and take care (south of Chicago!).

South side Chicago, how bad is it really? I was in Chicago 1997, watched the Stones and visited blues clubs like Kingston Mines. For some reason I didn't go to Chess studios but I was several times on my way to Checkerboard Lounge. Every time though some local inhabitant tried to stop me, telling me it's almost suicide visiting south side by yourself. Is that so or is it the locals overdramatising their own city? When I visit Chicago next time, can I walk through the south side to Chess and Bronzville feeling safely that it's better than suicide or not?

I think it depends on how advantarous you are. As far as I remember even on the website of Checkerboard Lounge (or was it some other side?) was the hint, to take a taxi just to the backdoor and to enter straight... (wasn't that the reason Buddy Guy opened a new blues club downtown? [Buddy Guys Legend] )

Mmm, I guess you're right. I just love the cover of the Chicago - The Blues Today albums and would like to see how it looks in reality a cold and grey winter morning. Perhaps I should arm myself with a big gun.

It's Buddy Guy's Legends, with an "S".

Hate to disappoint y'all and Gazza, but Muddy admitted that he sometimes 'ROLLED UP HIS SLEEVES" and like everyone back then, pitched in and helped, that's how REAL MEN were back then, try getting any of them to do that now.

Muddy also told the same story Keith did, saying that's how he "first met the Stones, ...on a ladder, painting, at Chess Studios."

So, yes, Keith is correct, this time

"Fuc the Rock babe, I want the Roll." (KR)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2005-06-30 07:44 by LISMM63.

Bärs, we we're crazy enough to take a walk to Chess Studios, but the hard way. As far as I remember we were in China Town when we recognized that Chess Studio wasn't quite near if you walk through an area without houses and so on (we were 3 guys). We walk through a small dark tunnel and came back to area with houses, when a gang of 4 or approached us. It was still daytime and the guys where asking us if we want to buy some clocks. We denied and walked a bit stronger, followed by this guys. Luckily that was close to Chess Studios so we entered and the guys were waiting outside...

When we had finished the tour we ordered a taxi back to downtonw! We then prefered B.G. LegendS (thanks LISMM63) and some other downtown blues clubs (double door, though not a blues club and not downtown ;-)

cool, Lismm63!
can you tell me where you read/heard Muddy tell it this way, so i can cite sources when i quote you all over the place?


"What do you want - what?!"
- Keith

You sure can! When my sister and husband moved to Chicago in about 2002 I went to visit and the Chess Building was the first place I insisted we visit. Being Canadian and I suppose naive we headed down to 2120 South Michigan Avenue and parked nearby. We walked over to the building which is now a museum for the Blues Heaven Foundation I believe and knocked. When we were asked on the intercom what we were there for we said we were Canadians there to see where music history was made and we were ushered in to the building. We were the only 3 people there and we got a great guided tour from the person working there. They have a great video that they show in what was the studio and the wonderful person working got us some drinks and popcorn while we settled down to watch the video. As we left I bought my then 7 year old son a harmonica at the gift shop and headed home. It was a fantastic tour that was so much fun because it was such a personalized experience and very down to earth. When you see the creaky back stairwell where Chuck Berry, Muddy Waters and Willie Dixon used to struggle to drag up their equipment to the studio because they were not supposed to enter from the front door you will get chills. Highly recommended.

Mark
The Rock and Roll Report
www.rockandrollreport.com
"Where Rock and Roll is still an adventure!"

Yes rknuth, I see what you mean. It's a pity it must be like that. I was actually walking around the "border" to the south side when a guy approached me and told me a stupid riddle. Being very confused I mumbled something and this guy started polishing my right shoe. When he was done he demanded ten dollars and by the look of his eyes I could understand that it was not a joke. That's why I'm going to take a fat gun with me next time.

The day after I was very drunk at Kingston Mines on the north side. When I walked home I got lost and found myself alone on a dark side street about 05.00 when four gyus came up to me. I said my prayers and was prepared to die (I was in no condition to fight or run away) when they actually started taking care of me, pointing out every single step on the map to my hotel. Extremely friendly people. Quite a contrast.

I think Muddy painted the ceiling but I doubt he wasnt selling records at the time. He toured didnt he? He painted because he felt like it. Helping out a bit. Keith wants to be like that honest and hardworking.

Yes the Chess Studio is open as a museum, but the exact hours escape me. This tour is supposed to be fun yet it has changed since it first began when the studio became a museum that was started by I believe Willie Dixons wife. The place has changed since it was used as a studio. The old mixing board used by Ron Malo is apparently gone. The studio section has also changed. This said, the ghosts of all those guys who recorded there must remain.

As for walking there, consider that it is a fairly long way from the Chicago Loop
(downtown). I would take a cab and save the time. The neighborhood is much better than it it used to be, but if there at night I would watch my back just to play it safe. The old Checkerboard was the same way. I drove down there a few times and just parked in the fenced in lot across the street. I never felt threatened in the club, which had this wonderfuly low ceiling and always had these old Christmas lights on. The bandstand was in your face, just like lots of the music there. Great vibe. Walking around after a gig at the Checkerboard unless you went to the lot would have been a bad idea. Buddy Guys Legends is alive and well, but has a death sentence on this locale because of a University expansion plan. Buddy's will be moved regretably, but I think will be around through the end of the year or longer. A good venue by the way, although lots of touristas.

The blues scene in Chicago is diminished compared to what it was 20-50 years ago, but some good bands remain in the area and many fine blues bands stop here on tour. The genre is alive, but less easily found compared to back in the heyday of the 50's and 60's. When here visitingf check out Buddy Guys legends as well as Rosa's on the West side. The Lincoln Ave, Halsted strip also has some decent clubds but tend to get lots of yuppie drunks in there who only want to hear Sweet Home Chicago.

Hey thanks for bringing this up. I live an hour from chicago and chess is the only major studio I think ive never been to. If you get a chance, go see sun and stax in memphis and motown in detroit, nice places. Does anyone know if atlantic studios are open in New York?

Thank you, Filstan and everybody

The area around Chess is vastly improved. Upscale restaurants and $250,000 + condos are popping up everywhere in that part of the south side. 2120 S. Michigan Av. is now a prime location because of its close proximity to downtown. Mayor Daley, being a south sider himself, has taken great pride in this incredible transformation. Visiting Chess, especially during the day, is no longer a problem . . .

So Neptune, you live around the Chicago area? I think there are a fair number of folks on this forum from the area. I am off to see Mac tonight with the Bump band at Fitzgeralds. Should be fun. You should go.